First, some general comments: Most of the information below applies to the Rajasthan region in particular, although much is applicable to other areas. Most of the information deals with mid-priced accommodations, around US$12 to $30 a night for a double room (not the very cheapest guest houses), though a couple of Heritage Hotels get into the $50 to $70 range (not truly luxury hotels, although nice enough they attract Western tour groups). Travelers with physical disabilities may have problems with access to many of the establishments mentioned, especially in hotels converted from older structures, so if this is an issue, inquire in advance.
Bathrooms: All the hotels mentioned have rooms with private, attached bathrooms with Western style toilets (not the hole in the floor). Toilet paper is provided, though sometimes in small amounts. However, often in the budget range and lower mid-range guesthouses and hotels, the shower isn't separated from sink and toilet area, so the entire bathroom floor can get flooded. Large plastic buckets are provided, along with plastic pitchers, and with practice you can usually shower or bathe over the big buckets and minimize the flooding of the floor. You might also want to keep a pair of plastic flip flops to wear only in the bathroom, to keep from tracking water out into your bedroom. The buckets can be useful for doing your own laundry.
Beds: The guest houses and lower mid-priced hotels often don't provide the top sheet for the bed that Americans in particular are accustomed to; rather there's just a comforter or duvet with a removable cotton cover, and maybe extra blankets if the nights are cold. You can ask for a top sheet.
Linens: If you like to use a washcloth, bring your own, preferably a thin, fast drying one. Only the more upscale hotels are likely to have them.
Heat, AC: The lowest price establishments can have somewhat basic, sparsely decorated rooms, without heating or air conditioning, though usually with an electric fan (attached to the ceiling, or portable on stands).
Access issues: The Heritage Hotels that are converted from old fortress palaces are often (though not always) reached though narrow, winding village streets that can't accommodate large vehicles. Often (though not always) these hotels are on hills, occasionally with steep climbs to the entrances. Although the structures can be charming and lovely, access to the rooms often requires climbing steep, narrow stairways. Often there are low doorways or decorative arches that require guests to duck their heads to avoid injury. If these hazards could pose a concern, inquire in advance.
Meals: The food in most of the hotels is excellent and almost always quite reasonably priced. However, Indians eat late, and in some of the Heritage Hotels, it can seem a long wait to many Westerners before the buffet dinner is served at 9 p.m. or so, after the entertainment.
Phoning: Keep in mind the time differences between India and your own location. Phone connections are usually good to the larger cities like New Delhi, Jaipur, and Mumbai (Bombay), but they can be more uncertain to some of the smaller places. To phone or send a fax from the USA: dial 011 (international connection) - 91 (country code for India) - then the area code (which is in parentheses) and the phone number. (Important note: if phoning to India from outside that country, the first "0" in the area code is dropped).
OUR HOTEL RECOMMENDATIONS
We suggest travelers consider the following accommodations in Rajasthan, mostly based on our own recent experiences. The facilities span the mid-price range, with the guest houses at the lower end of cost, around US $12 to $20 for a double room; and most of the hotels in the middle of that range, say $20 to $40: and a couple of the finer Heritage Hotels in the in US$40 to $70 range.
We welcome your feedback on your own hotel experiences, good and bad. Email us at:
HOTELS AND GUEST HOUSES
JAIPUR:
HOTEL MEGH NIWAS is an excellent, clean, attractive, well-run mid-price place to stay and eat, converted from a large family home with major remodeling and additions. It has a good restaurant, a swimming pool, pleasant tree shaded lawns, and a small gift shop. If you need help with any travel arrangements or recommendations, the in-house travel service will advise you and help you. Internet and email facilities available. Doubles run US$26 to $38
You can hire a car and driver here for local sightseeing, for touring Rajasthan, or to pick you up at the airport in New Delhi when you arrive in India.
The owners, Col. Fateh Singh (rtd.) and wife Indu Singh, are honest, helpful, hospitable, and reliable.
Col. Singh also personally operates a tourist camp at Pushkar during the Camel Fair and at the Christmas holidays.
Hotel Megh Niwas, C-9, Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Bani Park, Jaipur 302 006 (Rajasthan)
Tel: (0 141) 20-2034/5/6; Fax: (0 141) 20-1420; Email: email@meghniwas.com ; Web site: www.meghniwas.com
UDAIPUR:
HOTEL RAMPRATAP PALACE is a very well kept, well run, family owned and operated mid-price option overlooking the Fateh Sagar Lake. It's designed like an old haveli or palace, but is relatively new construction. Many attractively decorated rooms have balconies and views of the lake. The restaurant is good, as is the gift shop. Doubles run US$25 to $40. Also see the information on Rajput Special Hotels, an organization of family- operated hotels including this one, located throughout Rajasthan (described near the end under "Other Heritage-Type Hotels").
Tel: (0 294) 431701; Fax (0 294) 431700; Email: rpp_udr@vsnl.com
HOTEL CHANDRALOK. On earlier visits, we liked this pleasant, well-kept, reasonably priced, locally owned and run small hotel to the north of the central part of Udaipur, by Sukhadia Circle and close to the Saheliyon ki Bari gardens. Although still in operation, it seems to be missing from current guidebooks.
JODHPUR:
DEVI BHAWAN is run by a pleasant family that has converted its home with a large compound into a guest house/hotel, with spacious, attractive rooms arranged around a big, lovely, tree filled garden. There's a small but good restaurant. Internet access is available. The neighborhood seems quiet. Very reasonably priced, with doubles from US$16 to $18.
1 Ratanada Area, Jodhpur; Phone (0 291) 511067; Fax (0 291) 512 215; or if those don't work, try 43 42 15. Email: devibhawan@satyamonline.net
BIKANER:
HOTEL SHRI RAM: Brigadier Jagmal Singh Rathore (rtd.), his son Yogendra, and family will make you feel at home. A basic but pleasant guest house in a suburb, part of the family home. Very reasonably priced, with good meals. Double rooms run around US$4 to $21.
228, Sadul Ganj, Bikaner 334001; Tel. (0 151) 522651, 521320; Fax (0 151) 2 09181; Email: email@hotelshriram.com ; Web site: www.hotelshriram.com
HERITAGE HOTELS
DEOGARH (135 km or 80 miles north of Udaipur off National Highway 8, pronounced "DEV garh".) (Not to be confused with the extremely expensive luxury resort Devigarh north of Udaipur.):
DEOGARH MAHAL. A nicely converted, very popular, well-run, family operated fortress hotel at the edge of a bustling little town. More expensive than some of the other Heritage Hotels we mention, but worth it for most people. Large, very attractively decorated rooms and suites. Lots of opportunities for interesting nearby walks, or pay for guided excursions into the hills, with an option of a scenic train ride. Rawat (former ruler) Nahar Singh and the rest of his friendly family take an interest in talking with the guests before the entertainment and the excellent evening buffet dinner. Doubles run around US$52 to $83 (the latter for a suite).
Deogarh, Dist. Rajsamand, 313331, Rajasthan
Tel. (0 2904) 525 55; Fax (0 2904) 527 77; Email: deogarh@datainfosys.net ; Web site: www.deogarhmahal.com
BIJAIPUR (around 40 km or 24 miles northeast of Chittorgarh; 18 km or 11 miles south of Bassi, see below):
CASTLE BIJAIPUR. An old family fortress palace in a village in a peaceful, out-of-the-way valley, run by the Rao Sahib (former ruler of the area), Narendra Singh, and his family. Laid-back atmosphere. Pleasant, large, but basic rooms; fresh vegetables from their own gardens at meals. Buffet dinners late in the evening in the courtyard with entertainment. You may wonder what's going on at first, but talk with family members or visitors there and eventually you'll figure it out. It's just extremely casual, like you're a regular visitor in a big family home. Opportunities for hikes, etc., in local villages. Doubles run US$25 to $40.
Book through Hotel Pratap Palace, near HPO in Chittorgarh.
Tel. 40099, 43563; Fax: (0 1472) 40099 or 41042; Email: hpratapp@hotmail.com ; Web site: www.castlebijaipur.com
BASSI (20 km or 12 miles northeast of Chittorgarh, on the highway toward Bundi, and also on the way to Bijaipur):
BASSI FORT PALACE. A newly converted fortress palace in the center of a small town noted for its wood carvers. Nicely done. You're hosted by Bhupendra Singh and Karni Singh, very friendly and helpful, son and nephew of owner Col. K Randheer Singh. Can stay there on the way to or from Bijaipur.
P.O. Bassi, Chittorgarh 312 022, Rajasthan, India
Tel. (0 1472) 25321, 25248; Fax (0 1472) 40811;
Email: bassifortpalace@hotmail.com ; Web site: www.bassifortpalace.com
GHANERAO (23 km or 14 miles north of Ranakpur, between Sadri and Desuri):
GHANERAO ROYAL CASTLE. A converted castle in the center of a village, with attractively decorated rooms, interesting architectural features, and a good dining hall. The pleasant Thakur (former ruler of the area) Sajjan Singh and his son Himmat Singh are the hosts. Although not as extensively modernized as some Heritage Hotels, this one makes up for it in interest and authenticity. Treks, jeep excursions, and other activities can be arranged for the surrounding countryside and hills.
Tel. (0 2934) 840 35
JODHPUR:
AJIT BHAWAN HOTEL. We haven't stayed here recently, but on an earlier trip we had a good experience in this converted palace. More recent travelers have given good reports. The establishment is run by owner Maharaj Swaroop Singh, brother to the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Behind the big main structure are many newer interesting and attractive tiny cottages, each in its unique style, in a garden setting. Nightly entertainment and dinner in the courtyard. Jeep excursions available to the neighboring countryside and villages. Around US$48 for the cottage rooms.
Circuit House Road, Ratanada. Tel. (0 291) 43 74 10, Fax (0 291) 63 77 74.
Note: For Jodhpur, also see the Devi Bhawan mentioned above under Hotels and Guest Houses.
DUNGARPUR (Around 100 km or 60 miles south of Udaipur):
UDAI BILAS PALACE. The 18th century residence of the Maharao (former ruler) of Dungarpur and his family, who often meet the guests and join them at dinner. An attractive, quiet lakeside setting outside of the city, with a gorgeous, recently constructed swimming pool with an "invisible edge effect" so it looks like the pool continues into the lake. The guest rooms are quite large and are typical of many residential palaces in that the furnishings are 1940's vintage and art deco style, but they're attractive and comfortable. The rooms do lack phone connections, so you need to borrow the cordless phone in the office, and you have to go into town for internet connections. Meals are at fixed times in the dining room, and drinks and snacks are served before dinner on the lakeside terrace. Doubles run around $US 40 to $54 (the latter for a suite).
Tel. (0 2964) 308 08; Fax (0 2964) 310 08
NEEMRANA (Village Neemrana, near National Highway 8 between Delhi and Jaipur)
NEEMRANA FORT PALACE. The first of the Heritage resorts, a beautifully renovated hillside fortress palace, with large rooms and suites tastefully and impressively decorated in varying styles of different regions in India. More expensive than some Heritage Hotels, but many guests would consider it worth it. Often a venue for conferences and retreats, as it is relatively close to Delhi. We toured the facility but did not stay due to scheduling constraints. The staff appears pleasant and hospitable. Doubles run US$23 to $125.
Tel. (0 435) 6145; Fax (0 435) 11-435 1112. Email: sales@neemranahotels.com ; Web site: www.neemranahotels.com
OTHER HERITAGE-TYPE HOTELS
The Heritage Hotels Association has a web site that shows photos and other information, often including prices: www.heritagehotels.com . Prices vary widely, as do amenities and services. Many of these places are highly recommended by other travelers.
A relatively recent organization is Rajput Special Hotels, with a membership of ten individually family operated, mostly heritage-type, hotels in various areas of Rajasthan, including the Hotel Rampratap Palace in Udaipur and Castle Bijaipur (both mentioned above). For information and reservations, contact Jitendra Rathore or his staff at the Hotel Rampratap Palace in Udaipur: Tel: (0 294) 431701; Fax (0 294) 431700; Email: rpp_udr@vsnl.com
DEVI GARH (26 km or 16 miles north of Udaipur, not to be confused with Deogarh, mentioned above). In its own unique class, and not really qualifying as a "heritage hotel" due to the loss of most authenticity, this large fortress palace has been converted into the ultimate in luxury retreats. While retaining most of the shell of the old palace and many of the architectural features, such as the cusped arches and balconies, the decor is now ultramodern, much of it white, and the interior has been almost totally remodeled. There are a number of attractive pools and fountains. The complex has lost virtually all the flavor of the old Rajput palace and even the name has been changed from the traditional Delwara.
However, every aspect of the renovation is so aesthetically pleasing that it is difficult to be completely critical. We took a tour of the facilities but did not stay overnight. There is a charge for a tour, which includes tea in the all white dining room, and most visitors would probably find the place worth seeing. The staff seems pleasant and hospitable, and staying there should be a memorable experience for those who wish to pay the rates, at the upper end of the expensive range. Doubles run US$150 to $350 (the latter for a suite).
P.O. Box No. 144, Udaipur 313001, Rajasthan, India. Tel. (0 2953) 89211; Fax (0 2953) 89357; Email: reservations@deviresorts.com ; Web site: www.deviresorts.com
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Copyright © 2002 Gary Worthington. All rights reserved.
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